Navigating Indian Trains Like a Local

Forget everything you think you know about train travel. Indian railways are a lifeline, a floating city, and a adventure all rolled into one. My first train journey was from Mumbai to Goa. I had booked a sleeper class ticket because it was cheap, and I had no idea what I was getting into. I found my berth, which was a narrow slab of hard leather, and settled in. Within an hour, I was sharing my snacks with a family from Pune, learning how to play a card game I had never seen before, and listening to a chai wallah walk through the aisles shouting "Chai-garam!" The key is to book your tickets well in advance through the IRCTC website, which can be a bit clunky but works. Always keep your belongings close, use a small padlock for your bag, and do not be shy about asking fellow passengers which stop is yours. People on trains are incredibly friendly and will often adopt you for the duration of the journey. It is noisy, it is chaotic, and it is absolutely wonderful.