Kolkata: The City of Joy

Kolkata, formerly Calcutta, is a city that wears its heart on its sleeve. It is intellectual, artistic, and fiercely proud of its heritage. I arrived during Durga Puja, the biggest festival in the city, and the energy was infectious. Huge temporary temples, called pandals, were set up all over the city, each one more elaborate than the last. People were out on the streets at all hours, celebrating. Even if you are not there during a festival, Kolkata has plenty to offer. The Victoria Memorial is a stunning white marble building set in sprawling gardens. It is a museum now, but just sitting on the lawns and watching the city go by is a pleasure. I took a walk through the College Street area, which is famous for its bookshops and coffee houses. I sat in the Indian Coffee House, a legendary institution, and sipped filter coffee while listening to students debate politics and literature. The food in Kolkata is another highlight. I had kathi rolls, a spicy filling wrapped in a paratha, from a street stall, and it was so good I went back for seconds. Also try the sweets. Rosogolla, the famous Bengali sweet, is a must. Kolkata has a slower, more thoughtful pace than Mumbai or Delhi, and it is all the better for it.