Chennai: Gateway to the South

Chennai, formerly Madras, is often overlooked by travelers, which is a shame. It is a city with a deep history, a strong cultural identity, and some of the best food in India. I arrived there as the starting point for a trip through Tamil Nadu, and I ended up staying longer than I planned. The highlight for me was the food. Chennai is a vegetarian's paradise. I had a meal at a traditional restaurant where the food was served on a banana leaf, and the variety of curries, vegetables, and rice was overwhelming in the best way. The filter coffee in Chennai is also legendary. It is strong, sweet, and served in a metal cup and saucer. The city is home to some impressive temples. The Kapaleeshwarar Temple in the Mylapore neighborhood is a classic example of Dravidian architecture, with its colorful gopuram, or gateway tower. I spent an afternoon wandering the narrow streets around the temple, which are full of flower stalls and shops selling religious items. For a different pace, I went to the Marina Beach, one of the longest urban beaches in the world. It is not really for swimming, but it is a great place for an evening stroll and to watch the locals. Chennai is also a good base for exploring the temples of Tamil Nadu, like the famous shore temple at Mahabalipuram, which is just an hour down the coast.